Sunday, 8 March 2015

Gleaming Clothes & Ailing Milieu

If persons aboard knew India or Bengal some 2500 years ago, or 2000 years ago or 1000 or 500 years ago they knew it is a country of affluence, Muslin, silk and cotton clothes and fantastic food, with spices of course. So, if some governments some 2500 years after Buddha decide to make India again the textile hub of the world, then they will do historical justice, no doubt. But the point is – how: in the grand old English way?
In this column obviously we shall not contemplate on the political, diplomatic, military aspects but rather we shall be focusing on the human-nature interaction and its products. After all, all that we produce including the things using which we produce like machines, energy, raw materials etcetera all comes from Nature; and humans, who are products of nature, work on nature, by nature (tools are half nature half human product) to produce things. At a certain point of history of humans, they thought ‘we are at a war, at a struggle, with nature’ and tried to dominate nature in all possible ways. In a grand scale and in world scale it started with the Industrial revolution – steam engines, coal, steel and machinery, and ultimately some things of common human consumption – textiles. In came Lancashire, with Manchester, Birmingham ... and also Leeds, Sheffield, and of course, London.

Manchester 20 Pound Paper Money, Courtesy http://britishmeuseum.org
But we may recall Tagore’s childhood memoirs of travelling in Britain where he could fancy using hand washed water as ink! Or we may recollect Hard Times by Charles Dickens, with its Coke Town where the atmosphere is smoke-filled. Of course the coffers of the entrepreneurs and government were brimming. (Their promissory paper notes were gaining huge acceptance, becoming currency.) On the other side, on the smoggy filthy roads of England poor children flocked with brooms to clean the road for gentlemen (a the-then PUNCH cartoon is reproduced here). While Dickens portrayed the situation by harrowing tales, Engels described the condition of life or the workingmen in England; and before some years, Keats was writing “To one who has been long in city pent” or Blake was scribing: 
1856 Punch Cartoon, courtesy: Universal Dickens
When my mother died I was very young, 
And my father sold me while yet my tongue 
Could scarcely cry “‘weep! weep! weep! weep!’”
So your chimneys I sweep & in soot I sleep”. 
Not just poverty in monetary sense, what disturbed the young genius minds of those times was also the appalling living condition, as if humans were like caged animals in the stifling and tarnished confine. 
We may think that we are not that poor now, our workmen and we all do not live in such a dreadful condition. But textile industry is still not environmentally benign. Let us see just 3 news snippets from last year (2014) and 3 more from this year (2015).
1.    Mar 13, 2014, Down to Earth, “The National Green Tribunal (NGT), on March 5, ordered suspension of work in the textile dyeing and printing units in Pali district which were operating without the necessary approval from the Rajasthan Pollution Control Board (RPCB).”
2.    2014KANPUR: “The district administration and the pollution department of Farrukhabad have issued directives to shut the textile dyeing units operating in residential areas and those polluting the Ganga.”
3.    2014Sanganer: From dyeing to dying, JAIPUR: Sanganer assembly constituency with 13 wards in Jaipur Municipal Corporation (JMC) has one of the highest levels of water pollution in the city. 
January 15, 2015, The Hindu, “Tirupur textile park will worsen pollution’’ – The Vellore Citizens Welfare Forum (VCWF) has opposed the move of the Central government to set up a textile park in Tamil Nadu, particularly in Tirupur on the grounds that the cluster would aggravate the already serious problem of pollution caused by the dyeing units in Tirupur.
Flowing Filth, Erode, Picture courtesy M. Govarthan
5.    PATNA: National Green Tribunal (NGT) has threatened to shut down the industrial units causing pollution ...M/s Budhia Textile, located in Bhagalpur ... which was running without the consent ... has been closed. 
6.    Feb 17, 2015 Press Trust of India, Erode (TN): Power supply was disconnected to two textile printing factories here today after they were allegedly found discharging untreated effluent into drain, Tamil Nadu PCB officials said. 
Are not these pretty alarming? But what is the governmental response? It is frightening! Two more ‘news’ clips:
1.    Feb 18, 2015: The Economic Times (Delhi), DEBATABLE DECISION – Now, Delhi SMEs can produce sans Pollution Check...
2.    Jan 21, 2015: DNA, One-window approval process, 20-40% subsidy for setting up textile mills, easier pollution norms, reduced power tariff and all facilities nearby to convert "fibre to fashion"– these goodies are the part of the new proposed textile policy of Maharashtra...
So, what do we get? Where are we heading to!
Any person with a minimum acquaintance with Textile industry knows that the principal pollutant process is Dyeing. But it is not the only environmentally risky thing in itself. Of course dyes have lot of hazardous chemicals including heavy metals like chromium (in hexavalent form, which is very toxic), zinc, copper, manganese and even, in cases, traces of deadly cadmium.
Gap-Calvin-Klein-and-Levi-s-Responsible-for-Toxic-Textile-Town-in-China-2, Greenpeace
But there are many other textile processes besides dyeing which also lead to water pollution if not taken care of – for example sizing process, desizing process, rayon and polyester manufacturing etcetera. And these processes contribute to highly oxygen demanding wastes in effluent water. Dye leftovers, washings, oxygen-demanding wastes, organics, caustic ... water-bodies near textile mills are vulnerable to attacks from these. 
If we do not consider all these and get swayed by development & growth mania we must question ourselves: What a world we are bequeathing for our children and grandchildren!

Published in Business Economics, March 1, 2015